![]() ![]() ![]() Make sure you don’t miss it! Introduction The book also includes secret tips to improve your experience with these systems. ![]() You’ll learn how to install and use Lakka, but also Retropie and Recalbox. I’ll show you how to do this step-by-step and share with you a few tips I found to make the most of Lakka on your Raspberry Pi.Īs this tutorial is a complete how-to guide, if you already know Lakka, you can go directly to the section that interests you, using the table of contents below.īy the way, if you are interested in retro-gaming, my e-book “ Master your Raspberry Pi in 30 days” includes several chapters about this. Lakka is an operating system for retro-gaming, that can be used as an alternative to Retropie or Recalbox.Ī system image is available for Raspberry Pi on the official websiteĪfter flashing it with Etcher, everything will work directly on the first boot. We’ll see how to install Lakka and use it on your Raspberry Pi. I really enjoy it, so I’m going to share with you what I have learned about it in this complete tutorial. I'm not the greatest at soldering but it ended up ok, tinning the wires certainly helps when soldering onto an existing soldered connection.After making a few tutorials on RetroPie, I discovered the Lakka system. Just be careful to visualise which way the socket would be attached so the pins are soldered to the right points. There are a lot of solder points but they stand out as they are in a row, you can see the connections used in the picture. Doing it this way you also have to apply less heat to the circuit board which is always a bonus.Īs for what to connect where there are nine pins across the back of the PS2 socket adaptor and the there are also two sets of 9 pins on the back of the case controller sockets. I think if I did it again leaving the socket in place is easiest as you don't have to try and desolder while prising the socket from the board. I tried two different methods, for one port I desoldered the socket from the PS2 adaptor and on the other I mounted the wires onto the solder pads while the socket was still in place. I had read about hooking these directly up using GPIO but I thought for the sake of £1.57 the PS2 adaptor would give more flexibility. I also dismantled the controller sockets which are really handily in a separate module. I dismantled the usb to PS2 connector to reveal the connectors. This was intended to be temporary but it's quite secure so it's staying there for now. I temporarily used one internal screw mount to mount the Pi via one of it's mounting points. You can see the internal cabling doesn't look to bad at all as they are short cables so it made routing them easier. ![]() For now it's working nicely though so not too concerned. I then mounted the HDMI socket backwards into the hole left by the Multi-AV socket and it fits in nicely, I had to mount the adaptor backwards so that it could allow the socket to sit flush with the rear of the case, I've super glued this into place but shall hot glue it place once I did out my glue gun. I was able to gently bend these inwards to allow it to be passed through the hole and then bent them back, be very careful when bending them back out, I broke one socket by putting pressure on the centre of the USB socket. The panel mount USB socket came with two mounting points which were easily removed which gave a usb socket shell. Even despite removing all the plastic tabs and carefully prising they just weren't moving so I took out a pair of plierss and gently as possible prised them out, the outside of one socket was ever so slightly damaged but it's hard to tell.Īfter removing the old connectors I then set about modifying the back plate so that the sockets could sit as flush as possible, I gradually removed small parts of the back of the plastic housing so that they would site nicely behind. It was even more difficult to get the multi AV and IO sockets removed. After quite a while attempting this I resorted to the brute force method, it didn't look pretty and I've shown a picture to demonstrate that. Now i'm not sure if the above is true but I was able to heat up the solder points but with only solder wick it just wasn't working. I remember a long time ago a good friend who is far far more versed in such things that factory soldered items can be a pain to heat and remove as they typically use solder which melts at a higher temp when being factory made. Well it was a fine plan but in practice it was not as easy as I thought. I had an idea at this point of being able to desolder the rear connectors and remove the PCB which would give a nice clean look at the back. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |